Ennerdale Water is the most westerly lake in the Lake District and among the wildest — uniquely, it has no public road along its shore and no village on its banks, which is exactly why it feels so remote. It is a glacial ribbon lake, roughly 2.5 miles (3.9 km) long, up to a mile wide and about 45 m (148 ft) deep, fed by the River Liza tumbling down from beneath Great Gable and draining westward through the River Ehen to the Irish Sea. The Coast to Coast joins the lake near the start of Stage 2 and follows its southern shore, where the only obstacle is Anglers Crag — a stony, prow-like buttress of Crag Fell that plunges straight into the water and forces a short rocky scramble. Just beyond it sits a little grass-topped rock known as Robin Hood's Chair. The entire valley is the heart of 'Wild Ennerdale', a long-term rewilding partnership returning the river, woods and grazing to a more natural state.
Highlights
- The most westerly and one of the wildest Lakeland lakes — no shoreline road, no lakeside village
- Anglers Crag: a rocky prow of Crag Fell jutting into the lake, where the path scrambles over a short, exposed rib above the water
- Robin Hood's Chair, the grass-topped rock just north-east of Anglers Crag on the south shore
- The River Liza and the 'Wild Ennerdale' rewilding project — a braided, free-moving river and regenerating woodland
- A genuine chance of red squirrels in the conifer and broadleaf woods along the valley
- The long view up-dale to Pillar, Steeple and the head of Ennerdale at the start of a big mountain day
At a glance
| Period | Natural landmark (glacial) |
|---|---|
| Stage | 2 — Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite |
Take care
- The path around Anglers Crag includes a short rocky scramble on a narrow shelf directly above the lake — care needed when wet or windy; an inland bad-weather alternative exists
- Stage 2 is a long, committing mountain day; once past the lake there are few easy escape routes before Honister
- No shop, pub or café on the lake shore — the last facilities are in Ennerdale Bridge
- Mobile signal is poor to absent up the valley
History
Ennerdale has long been the least-developed of the major dales. A Victorian and Edwardian scheme to bring a railway up the valley was defeated, and the lake escaped the lakeside roads and villas that ring other Lakeland waters. In the 20th century the upper valley was extensively planted with regimented Forestry Commission conifers, and the lake itself was used as a water supply, with a low weir raising its level. Since 2003 the 'Wild Ennerdale' partnership — Forestry England, the National Trust, United Utilities and Natural England — has worked to undo the most artificial elements: removing conifer blocks, letting the River Liza braid and shift freely across its gravels (one of very few English rivers allowed to do so), and reintroducing extensive grazing to shape a wilder, more resilient landscape.
Myth & legend
A rock on the southern shore just beyond Anglers Crag is known as Robin Hood's Chair, one of many spots across northern England that borrow the outlaw's name without any genuine connection to him.
Geology
Ennerdale Water fills a classic glacial trough, gouged out by a powerful valley glacier during the last Ice Age that over-deepened the rock basin and dammed it with moraine at the western end. The fells around the head — Pillar, Steeple, Great Gable — are built largely of the tough Borrowdale Volcanic Group, while the distinctive pink Ennerdale Granophyre forms much of the high ground to the north; Crag Fell and Anglers Crag, on the south shore the path follows, are craggy volcanic rock. The lake is about 45 m deep, and the River Liza that feeds it runs over wide gravel beds that it is now allowed to rework naturally.
Wildlife & nature
The valley is a stronghold for the native red squirrel, which clings on in the conifer and mixed woodland here and in the northern Lakes — a real possibility on this early stretch of the walk. Buzzards and ravens work the crags, with peregrines on the higher rock and dippers and grey wagtails along the Liza. The rewilded woods are returning birch, rowan, oak and juniper, and the open fells carry heather, bilberry and hardy grasses grazed by Herdwick sheep and, increasingly, free-roaming cattle. The clean, gravelly Ehen below the lake holds one of England's most important populations of the endangered freshwater pearl mussel.
The view
From the southern shore the lake stretches away beneath the steep slopes of Crag Fell and Anglers Crag, with the great wall of Pillar, Steeple and the Ennerdale fells closing the head of the dale ahead. The scramble over Anglers Crag gives the finest viewpoint, looking back along the full length of the water to the coastal plain and out toward the Irish Sea. The absence of roads, buildings and crowds gives Ennerdale a stillness and scale that few Lakeland lakes can match.
Photography
Shoot the length of the lake from Anglers Crag, with the high fells framing the head of the dale. Early morning often brings mirror-calm reflections and mist on the water. The braided gravels of the River Liza, the regenerating woodland and the pink granophyre crags make strong detail and landscape images. Low side-light along the south shore in the morning models Crag Fell beautifully.
When to visit
Late spring to early autumn (May–September) gives the best and safest walking, with long daylight for the big Stage 2 crossing. Bluebells carpet the lower woods in late April–May; bilberry ripens in the fells in late summer. Autumn brings rich colour to the broadleaf regeneration. In winter the Anglers Crag scramble can be icy and the high crossing beyond serious — the inland low-level alternative around the crag is the safer choice in poor conditions.
Getting there
There is no public transport to the lake itself and no road along its shore. Ennerdale Bridge, a couple of miles west (the end of Stage 1 / start of Stage 2), is the nearest village; the Bowness Knott car park at the north-western corner is the usual vehicle access for the valley. The nearest stations are on the Cumbrian Coast Line at Whitehaven and St Bees, with onward travel by road. Most Coast to Coast walkers arrive on foot from Ennerdale Bridge.
Where to stay
There is no accommodation on the lake shore. Ennerdale Bridge (B&Bs, the Shepherd's Arms and Fox & Hounds inns) is the place to stay at the start of Stage 2. Up the valley, the remote YHA Ennerdale sits among the forest, and the celebrated YHA Black Sail lies at the dale head for those splitting the stage. Rosthwaite, where the stage ends, has hotels, inns, B&Bs and a campsite. Book well ahead in peak season and consider the widely-used baggage-transfer services.
Food & water
Fill up in Ennerdale Bridge before starting Stage 2 — there are no facilities on the lake shore. The River Liza and the becks running off the fells provide water up the valley (treat or filter before drinking). Carry enough for the long climb beyond the lake toward Loft Beck and Honister.
Safety
The main hazard by the lake is the short rocky scramble around Anglers Crag, on a narrow shelf directly above deep water — it is straightforward in good conditions but slippery when wet and exposed in wind; an inland alternative avoids it in bad weather. Beyond the lake, Stage 2 is a long, committing mountain day with few escape routes and patchy signal. Carry waterproofs, warm layers, food and water, and start early. In an emergency dial 999 or 112 and ask for the Police, then Mountain Rescue (the relevant team is Wasdale or Cockermouth); for non-urgent medical advice call NHS 111.
Accessibility
The Coast to Coast route along the south shore is a rough, rocky path with a scrambly section at Anglers Crag and is not wheelchair- or buggy-accessible. However, the gentler northern side of the lake from Bowness Knott is a graded, largely level track suitable for many (see the Lake District 'Miles Without Stiles' routes) — but this is not the C2C line. Dogs should be kept under close control around grazing stock and the lake-edge scramble.
Visitor tips
Take the Anglers Crag scramble carefully and enjoy the viewpoint at the top — but if it is wet, windy, or you are unsure, use the signed inland alternative. Keep your eyes open for red squirrels in the valley woods; this is one of the best stretches of the whole walk for them. Fill water bottles in Ennerdale Bridge, as there is nothing on the shore. Anyone wanting an easy, accessible lake walk should use the northern forest track from Bowness Knott rather than the rocky C2C south shore.
Listen: the audio guide
The full narration of this stop's audio guide, in text.
Look at the water. No road runs along this shore. No village stands on these banks. Just a long, clear glacial lake held between steep fells, a rocky path picking its way around a scrambly little headland, and the whole wild valley opening ahead of you. Of all the lakes in Lakeland, this is the quiet one — and you have it almost to yourself. Ennerdale Water is the most westerly of the great lakes, and by common agreement the wildest. It is the only large Lakeland water with no road along its shore and no settlement on its banks — a rare thing in a national park loved almost to distraction. The lake was gouged out by a glacier in the last Ice Age, and it lies about four kilometres long and some forty-five metres deep, cold and clean. It is fed by the River Liza tumbling down from the high fells, and it drains westward by the River Ehen toward the Irish Sea you left behind. Early on this stage of the walk, the Coast to Coast traces the lake's southern shore, scrambling around the rocky prow of Anglers Crag before turning up the long forested valley toward the mountains at its head. The whole dale is now the heart of Wild Ennerdale, a pioneering rewilding project letting the river wander and the woods return to something close to their natural state. After the busy, cherished shores of the better-known lakes, Ennerdale feels like a step back in time — a glimpse of how much of this landscape looked before the roads and the car parks arrived, and a promise of the emptier country to come. Here is what to look for. First, Anglers Crag itself, where the path leaves the easy shoreline and picks a rocky, hands-on line around a small headland dropping straight to the water — take it slowly and mind your feet. Second, just beyond the crag, look for the natural rock seat known as Robin Hood's Chair, a slab that has borrowed the outlaw's famous name. Third, notice what is missing: no tarmac, no car parks crowding the shore, no houses — only fell, forest and water, the way much of Lakeland once looked. Fourth, follow the valley opening up ahead, where dark ranks of conifer are slowly giving way to native trees and open ground as the rewilding takes hold. And fifth, find the River Liza where it feeds the lake, a bright braided stream now left free to shift its own gravel beds and carve its own course across the valley floor. That rock beyond Anglers Crag is worth a smile. All across the north of England you will meet Robin Hood's name fastened onto crags, wells, chairs, bays and stones — and the great walk itself ends at Robin Hood's Bay on the far coast. Yet the truth is that most of these places have no real connection to the outlaw at all. His legend simply grew so large that people hung it on any striking rock or handsome view that seemed to deserve a story. So here on a wild Cumbrian shore, hundreds of miles and hundreds of years from Sherwood, a lonely slab of rock became Robin Hood's Chair — a small piece of folklore, invented for the pleasure of it, waiting quietly for you to walk past. From the head of the lake the valley narrows and climbs toward the highest ground of the walk. Ahead, ringed by great fells, stands Black Sail Hut — a tiny former shepherd's bothy that is now England's most remote youth hostel, reachable only on foot or by bike. Keep to the path, watch the weather gathering on the tops, and press on up the dale. Walk safe.
Common questions
How old is Ennerdale Water?
Ennerdale Water dates from the Natural landmark (glacial) period.
How do I get to Ennerdale Water?
There is no public transport to the lake itself and no road along its shore. Ennerdale Bridge, a couple of miles west (the end of Stage 1 / start of Stage 2), is the nearest village; the Bowness Knott car park at the north-western corner is the usual vehicle access for the valley. The nearest stations are on the Cumbrian Coast Line at Whitehaven and St Bees, with onward travel by road. Most Coast to Coast walkers arrive on foot from Ennerdale Bridge.
Is Ennerdale Water accessible?
The Coast to Coast route along the south shore is a rough, rocky path with a scrambly section at Anglers Crag and is not wheelchair- or buggy-accessible. However, the gentler northern side of the lake from Bowness Knott is a graded, largely level track suitable for many (see the Lake District 'Miles Without Stiles' routes) — but this is not the C2C line. Dogs should be kept under close control around grazing stock and the lake-edge scramble.
When is the best time to visit Ennerdale Water?
Late spring to early autumn (May–September) gives the best and safest walking, with long daylight for the big Stage 2 crossing. Bluebells carpet the lower woods in late April–May; bilberry ripens in the fells in late summer. Autumn brings rich colour to the broadleaf regeneration. In winter the Anglers Crag scramble can be icy and the high crossing beyond serious — the inland low-level alternative around the crag is the safer choice in poor conditions.
Is there food and water at Ennerdale Water?
Fill up in Ennerdale Bridge before starting Stage 2 — there are no facilities on the lake shore. The River Liza and the becks running off the fells provide water up the valley (treat or filter before drinking). Carry enough for the long climb beyond the lake toward Loft Beck and Honister.
Where can I stay near Ennerdale Water?
There is no accommodation on the lake shore. Ennerdale Bridge (B&Bs, the Shepherd's Arms and Fox & Hounds inns) is the place to stay at the start of Stage 2. Up the valley, the remote YHA Ennerdale sits among the forest, and the celebrated YHA Black Sail lies at the dale head for those splitting the stage. Rosthwaite, where the stage ends, has hotels, inns, B&Bs and a campsite. Book well ahead in peak season and consider the widely-used baggage-transfer services.
What should I know before visiting Ennerdale Water?
Take the Anglers Crag scramble carefully and enjoy the viewpoint at the top — but if it is wet, windy, or you are unsure, use the signed inland alternative. Keep your eyes open for red squirrels in the valley woods; this is one of the best stretches of the whole walk for them. Fill water bottles in Ennerdale Bridge, as there is nothing on the shore. Anyone wanting an easy, accessible lake walk should use the northern forest track from Bowness Knott rather than the rocky C2C south shore.
Is Ennerdale Water safe to visit?
The main hazard by the lake is the short rocky scramble around Anglers Crag, on a narrow shelf directly above deep water — it is straightforward in good conditions but slippery when wet and exposed in wind; an inland alternative avoids it in bad weather. Beyond the lake, Stage 2 is a long, committing mountain day with few escape routes and patchy signal. Carry waterproofs, warm layers, food and water, and start early. In an emergency dial 999 or 112 and ask for the Police, then Mountain Rescue (the relevant team is Wasdale or Cockermouth); for non-urgent medical advice call NHS 111.
Nearby on the route
Plan the visit
Browse every heritage site on the culture & history index, see where it falls on the route, or get the free Coast to Coast Path app for offline maps, GPS and audio guides.