Patterdale to Shap

History

This stage crosses two layers of history. Along the high ridge the route briefly follows High Street, the course of a Roman road that linked forts at Brougham (Brocavum, near Penrith) and Ambleside (Galava) across the fells, used for centuries afterwards by drovers. Far below, Haweswater is a created landscape: under the Manchester Corporation Act 1919, a dam (described as the world's first hollow-buttress dam) was built from 1929 and the valley fully flooded by 1935, raising the water by about 29 m and drowning the village of Mardale Green, whose Dun Bull Inn and church were demolished. In drought the old field walls and bridge re-emerge. The day ends at Shap Abbey, founded around 1199 for the Premonstratensian 'white canons'; it is often called the last abbey to be founded in medieval England, and was among the last to be dissolved, the abbot surrendering to Henry VIII's men on 14 January 1540.

Nature & Wildlife

The walk climbs from valley pasture through heather and bilberry fell into a high, open mountain environment of grass, rock and bog. The Riggindale valley beneath Kidsty Pike was the territory of England's last resident golden eagle; eagles first bred there in 1969 and the last lone male was seen in November 2015, after which the RSPB eagle viewpoint closed. Ravens, buzzards and meadow pipits are common on the tops, and red deer roam the Martindale and Haweswater fells. Haweswater's surrounding land is managed for wildlife, with returning native woodland and upland birds along the reservoir shore.

Geology

These are the Far Eastern Fells, built largely of hard Borrowdale Volcanic Group rocks - lavas and tuffs erupted around 450 million years ago that give the Lake District its craggy, rugged character. Kidsty Pike's distinctive peaked profile, which earns it status as a separate fell despite being a top of Rampsgill Head, is a product of this resistant rock. The U-shaped trough holding Haweswater and the hanging valley of Riggindale were carved by Ice Age glaciers; the boggy, peaty ground on the ridge reflects the cool, wet upland climate.

Scenic Highlights

The classic set-pieces are Angle Tarn with its little islands early on, the airy ridge walk along High Street, and the summit of Kidsty Pike where the whole western Lakeland skyline lies behind you and the Eden Valley and Pennines open ahead. The plunging view down Riggindale to Haweswater from near the summit is one of the finest on the route. The reservoir shore itself is quieter walking, with the long sheet of water below the fells.

Photography

Shoot Angle Tarn with the fells reflected in calm morning light; the Kidsty Pike summit cairn framed against the long drop into Riggindale and Haweswater; and the dam end of the reservoir looking back up the valley to the high tops. Shap Abbey's tower against the River Lowther is a strong end-of-day subject in low evening sun. The high ground is exposed, so cloud and shafts of light over the ridge can be dramatic.

When to Visit

Best walked May to September, when the high ground is driest and daylight is longest - important given the 15.5-mile length and big climb. Even in summer the tops are exposed and weather can turn quickly; the ridge and the descent off Kidsty Pike are bleak and rough in mist. In late autumn and winter, short daylight, snow and ice on the high ground make this a serious mountain day best avoided by most C2C walkers without winter skills. After heavy rain the moorland and the descent are notably boggy.

Getting There

Patterdale is reached by Stagecoach bus 508 from Penrith (which has a mainline railway station on the West Coast Main Line) via Pooley Bridge, Ullswater and Glenridding - check timetables, as the 508 at times runs only between Penrith and Patterdale when Kirkstone Pass is closed. From Shap, infrequent local buses (such as the 106 towards Penrith and Kendal) provide onward links; Penrith station is the nearest railhead. Bampton near Haweswater has very limited bus services. There is no public transport along the high fell section itself.

Stay & Eat Nearby

Most walkers overnight in Shap, which has pubs with rooms (the Kings Arms, the Greyhound Hotel), guesthouses (such as Brookfield and The Hermitage) and New Ing Lodge, which offers rooms, dormitory/bunk-style beds and camping. For a shorter day, the village of Bampton near Haweswater has accommodation including the Mardale Inn, a community pub a short way off the route. Book well ahead in peak season (June-August), when beds in Shap fill quickly. Baggage-transfer services (e.g. Sherpa Van) operate along the whole Coast to Coast and will move your pack between Patterdale and Shap.

Water & Facilities

Fill up in Patterdale before you start, as there is no shop, cafe or tap on the stage until Shap. Mountain becks on the climb and streams feeding Haweswater offer emergency water only and should be treated/filtered. Plan to carry enough for the whole high section; the next reliable supplies are in Shap.

Safety

This is a full mountain day. The ridge over The Knott, High Street and Kidsty Pike is high and exposed with no shelter, and the descent to Haweswater is steep and rough; take care with footing and navigation, especially in poor visibility or after rain when the ground is boggy and partly pathless. Carry a map and compass (OS Explorer OL5) and know how to use them - do not rely on phone signal, which is patchy to absent on the tops. Carry full waterproofs, warm layers, food and at least a litre or two of water, because there is no refreshment between Patterdale and Shap. Check the mountain weather forecast and start early to keep daylight in hand. In an emergency dial 999 or 112, ask for Police then Mountain Rescue; for non-emergency health advice call NHS 111.

Accessibility

This is a strenuous high-mountain stage on rough, steep and boggy fell paths with no step-free or wheelchair-accessible sections; it is not suitable for those with limited mobility. Shap Abbey at the stage end is freely accessible at all reasonable times but sits in a riverside field reached by a lane, with uneven ground around the ruins.

Visitor Tips

Start early and check the mountain forecast - this is the longest, hardest Lakeland day and the high ground is committing in bad weather. Carry all your food and water from Patterdale; there is nothing en route. Don't rush the steep descent off Kidsty Pike, and pace yourself for the long, stony reservoir shore, which feels longer than the map suggests. If the tops are in cloud, navigate carefully along the ridge. Leave time at the end to visit the free Shap Abbey ruins just before the village.